Scientists Studying Ocean Wave Size Surprised by New Findings

Previously geologists studying ocean waves thought that there were two types of waves. large storm driven waves and small fair weather waves. Recently two geologists at the University of Wisconsin discovered a large size discrepancy between waves in different oceans. Understanding wave patterns, size and their effects on bottom composition has led these scientists to change their thoughts regarding the pervious theories on wave size. Researchers found that either storm driven or gentle waves they are all one type. Some researchers studying ancient environments are taking a close look and are beginning to interpret structures preserved in sedimentary rocks. Storm waves churn up sediment like sand, and leave a characteristic pattern known as hummocky cross-stratification. Originally scientists who found this pattern thought that ancient rocks formed in deeper water. Scientists believed that larger storm waves were bigger and therefore touched the seafloor more deeply than regular waves. New research is showing that large or regular, both are likely to hit the bottom in the same place. Data collected from buoys in the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean, and western Atlantic recorded more than 2.3 million waves over the course of 12 years. Although each buoy was able to record many wave sizes, scientists realized that over time wave size centered on only one distinct size. Researchers also learned that different oceans have a characteristic wave size. Because the waters in the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean are protected, the average wavelength or distance between crests is about 230 feet. In the Atlantic where the ocean is more open the average wavelength is 394 feet.  Because of the extensive data set gathered from the buoys geologists will now be able to better interpret how sedimentary rocks are formed in an open ocean environment as well as on the more sheltered continental shelf.